Christmas is different in France. Or at least our part. It is not the frenzy of gift buying, wrapping, and excessive spending. There are gifts, and decorations, but it seems to be more about people and food and visiting those you love. Meals are long with food well spaced and bathed in conversation, music, and much wine. This is especially the case for Christmas Eve, which for us is all about seafood (and some duck because all meals include some duck…). That means literally dozens of oysters, piles of huge shrimp (with shells and heads), sometimes mussels, anchovies, and this year because we had guests who could not eat shellfish, smoked salmon and my-sister-in-law’s amazing fish stew. (For Italian readers, we did make it to seven fish, although three were in the stew.)
This year we began with thinly sliced bread and toast featuring either smoked salmon or foie gras. I’d say the salmon was for me, but there was a lot and it was all eaten, as was the foie gras of course. And we started with sweet wine (a local and lovely Gaillac Doux). After that came oysters, followed by the hugest shrimp with Yvon’s very garlicky aioli. The doux replaced by local dry whites. Then a little green salad, a cheese plate (I’ll talk about the cheeses elsewhere), and a little while to let it all settle.
Then, finally, one of Nadine’s perfect Buche de Noel’s and a stollen and finally, a plate of chocolates and marzipan and a sparkling Gaillac.
Christmas Eve was the largest meal this year (14 people at table), and ideal time to visit with people who had other plans on Christmas Day itself. The Christmas Day meal was duck-centered, but only eight at table. Small gifts were exchanged, with more on Boxing Day, but that was not the main point and were more of a pleasant addition than a purpose.
Boxing Day (December 26) is the really sociable day it seems. We had visits from two of our favorite families (parents and an adult child in each case) and it was lovely to catch up. Small gifts were exchanged with closer friends and several of our company left so it was a day of coming and going and short and log visits.
